castle, almost within
the grounds of which the hotel stands. It is impossible to imagine a
more picturesque site for a great inland mansion. The views up and down
the Blackwater from the drawing-room windows are simply the perfection
of river landscape. The grounds are beautifully laid out, one secluded
garden-walk, in particular, taking you back to the inimitable Italian
garden-walks of the seventeenth century. In the vestibule is the sword
of state of the Corporation of Youghal, a carved wooden cradle for which
still stands in the church at that place, and over the great gateway are
the arms of the great Earl of Cork, but these are almost the only
outward and visible signs of the historic past about the castle. Seen
from the graceful stone bridge which spans the river, its grey towers
and turrets quite excuse the youthful enthusiasm with which the Duke of
Connaught, who made a visit here when he was Prince Arthur, is said to
have written to his mother, that Lismore was "a beautiful place, very
like Windsor Castle, only much finer."
Lismore Cathedral was almost entirely rebuilt by the second Earl of Cork
three or four years after the Restoration, and has a handsome marble
spire, but there is little in it to recall the Catholic times in which
Lismore was a city of churches and a centre of Irish devotion.
The hostess of the "Devonshire Arms" gave me some excellent salmon,
fresh from the river, and a very good dinner. She bewailed the evil days
on which she has fallen, and the loss to Lismore of all that the Castle
used to mean to the people. Lady Edward Cavendish had spent a short time
here some little time ago, she said, and the people were delighted to
have her come there. "It would be a great thing for the country if all
the uproar and quarrelling could be put an end to. It did nobody any
good, least of all the poor people."
From Lismore I came back by the railway through Fermoy.
CHAPTER IX.
PORTUMNA, GALWAY, _Feb. 28._--I left Cork by an early train to-day, and
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